Best known as both the home of the colossal temples of Angkor Wat and for the brutal Khmer Rouge era of the 1970s and later civil war, Cambodian history encompasses both some of humanity’s greatest artistic accomplishments and most horrific deeds. The history is what draws most travellers here, but this Southeast Asian nation has more to offer for those who linger longer than a short temple hop to Siem Reap. The coastline of sandy white beaches tempts every sun sloth. Jungle-swathed countryside is geared up for the more intrepid, and the buzzing capital of Phnom Penh envelops visitors in the frenetic pulse of contemporary Cambodian city life. Beyond the temples, and recovering from the atrocities that rained down on the country in the late 20th century, Cambodia is an emerging destination for Southeast Asia travels that manages to charm all who come.

1 Angkor Archaeological Park

This temple city is Cambodia’s number one drawcard. Accessed from the town of Siem Reap, the wats or temples of the Angkorian period are so ambitious in scale and in the majesty of their construction, that Angkor Wat is usually rated as one of the world’s must-see ancient sites. Built between AD 802 and 1432, this was the largest town in the world during the medieval age as well as the vast powerhouse of the Khmer kings who also endeavored to outbid their predecessors in the beauty with their building. As the city’s wooden dwellings were encroached and then decayed by the surrounding jungle, what remains today, are just those mighty temples or wats.

The temple of Angkor Wat itself, the planet’s largest religious building, is only one sliver of the site in total, plus the sprawling circuit of temples deserves three days to explore if you want to understand the scope of the Angkorian period’s architectural achievements. For those short on time though, the main highlights after Angkor Wat are the tree-root clasped forehead of Ta Prohm (which first found international fame as a location used in the movie Tomb Raider), the Bayon Temple for its 216 stone-carved faces, Angkor Thom, and Preah Khan.

2 Phnom Penh

Cambodia’s capital is the frenetic heartbeat of the nation; a city of chaotic streets abuzz with motorbikes and car horns that can frazzle at first glance. Deserted completely during the Khmer Rouge madness and left to wither and decay, Phnom Penh has bounced back to become one of Southeast Asia’s most dynamic cities. For visitors, this is Cambodia’s most cosmopolitan destination, with a café and restaurant scene unrivaled in the rest of the country. It’s also house to a scattering of important historic sites that help unravel both Cambodia’s modern and ancient background. The National Museum is home to a swag of Khmer sculpture that traces the nation’s history from the pre-Angkorian age right through to the phenomenal majesty of the god-Kings of Angkor. The Royal Palace provides gorgeous examples of traditional artistry, while Tuol Sleng Museum and the killing fields of Choeung Ek speak of the horror and brutality the people of this country suffered under Khmer Rouge rule.

3 Ratanakiri

This is outback Cambodia and the endless red-dirt roads of the region, leading to ethnic minority villages, are an intrepid traveler’s delight. For all those with an adventurous streak, the province is home to some of Cambodia’s best trekking, coming from spotting gibbons at Veun Sai-Siem Pang Conservation Area, where overnight trips involve sleeping in hammocks and early rises to track buff-cheeked gibbons, to hiking in Virachey National Park, home to elephants, tigers, and sun bears. There’s even more relaxing options on offer as well. The emerald water of Yeak Lom Crater Lake just outside of Ban Lung town is a tranquil swimming spot, while the waterfalls of Chaa Ong and Ka Tieng are fun diversions that provide more opportunities for getting wet. Ratanakiri is definitely a nature- filled reprieve for travelers suffering from temple-fatigue.

4 Battambang

The countryside of rice fields and tiny villages surrounding the northwest city of Battambang holds some of the most tranquil rural scenery in Cambodia, and the area is home to swags of historic riches aswell. All of this has made the city itself a popular destination on traveler itineraries. For history fans, the temples of Phnom Sampeau, Phnom Banan, and Wat Ek Phnom are all within day-tripping distance, as the famed Bamboo – a single-line rail monitor where “carriages” made from a platform of wood and bamboo travel between Battambang’s east bank and the tiny village of O Srav – is one of the most popular activities intended for site visitors. Battambang itself can be a rather sleepy city compared to the buzz of the capital, with a central district brimming with colonial buildings. For those who found Phnom Penh’s hectic buzz a bit too much to handle, Battambang is a thoroughly approachable town to use as a base.